Omega as a brand has built itself a reputation of producing some of the finest watches in the world. Being the Swiss watchmaking juggernaut that it is today, spanning over 170 years of manufacturing prowess, Omega has made some of the most iconic and recognisable watches today namely, the Speedmaster Moonwatch, the Seamaster, and the Constellation, each of which represents a historical milestone for the Company.
Therefore it is easy to see why watches like the Omega Constellation Globemaster be oftentimes overlooked and overshadowed by its other flagship pieces.
Making its debut at Baselworld 2015 (sadly have been put to rest in 2020 due to the Pandemic), the Globemaster was one of the most talked-about watches for somewhat the wrong reasons. The design and aesthetics of the Globemaster gave the impression to a number of enthusiasts that it was a copy of Rolex Datejust’s fluted bezel. However, the criticism towards the Globemaster was short-lived as Omega had made a number of watches with fluted bezels manufactured in the past (the 1960s Constellation included). Therefore, I believe that it is unfair to condemn Omega for a design element that had been used in their watches before. But I digress, as the Globemaster’s technical specifications proved far more interesting than its design. Let me explain.
Coming from Omega’s Constellation line, the Globemaster bears a number of design DNA that can be seen on the timepiece itself. Firstly, the pie-pan dial. Although subtle (as compared to its vintage Omega Constellation counterparts) and instead of having its signature triangular markers, the Globemaster sports faceted triangles which are aligned in perfect harmony. The added baton markers tend to give the Globemaster a more roomy and flat appearance, which is pretty easy and pleasant on the eyes with striking harmony.
The fluted bezel is a pretty interesting one to talk about. Omega was able to turn a rather dull metal such as tungsten to a sparkly jewel. It goes as good a job as Rolex’s Datejust (in precious metal might I add) in the way it shimmers under light. Props to Omega on that. With all that buzz about how it is a “Datejust Copy”, as time goes by I hardly pay attention to the bezel and more towards the blue sunbrushed dial instead. I find the dial much more interesting to look at. Well I’m not trained journalist or writer, and therefore I lack the eloquence and poetry to describe how gorgeous the blue dial of the Globemaster is. Depending on lighting conditions and how the watch was angled, I was able to observe different shades of blue and sometimes black. It is easy to get lost in its beauty. It is something that cannot be explained, but has to experienced by the wearer himself.
On the display case-back, you are able to see the medallion with the hand engraved Observatory of Geneva under a starry sky embedded in the middle of the sapphire crystal. Nice touch, and I have no complaints on that as the Globemaster is part of the Constellation line. The caseback also beautifully displays the Caliber 8900 with its impeccable finishing.
Omega also did a fantastic job on the Globemaster’s bracelet, the links are beautifully flushed making the watch case and bracelet come as one. Though it’s hard to say whether the Globemaster is a dress watch or a sports watch, I am pretty confident to say that it is indeed a sports watch. Although on paper, the watch is sized at 39mm, its thickness and weight make it one hell of a thick chunky-monkey. It does wear bigger on my wrist at least, and I may go as far to say that it is just as heavy as my Seiko SKX009.
When we talk about the technical aspects of the Globemaster, it is safe to say that the watch is nothing short of a horological feat for Omega. It is in fact the first watch from Omega to be given certification as a chronometer by the Swiss Federal Institute of Meteorology (METAS), which is more demanding than the certification by COSC (by the way, the Globemaster is COSC certified as well, how’s that for doubling down). The watch is tested in 6 positions for rate and at 2 temperatures; it is also controlled for isochronism at 2/3 of its power and on full wind.
Perhaps more importantly, the cased-up watch and the movement must continue to function even after being exposed to magnetic fields and must be able to withstand a strength of 15,000 gauss. I am looking right at you Rolex Milgauss. In terms of magnetic resistance, the bar is set by the Globemaster to follow suit, and at a fraction of the price of a Milgauss? Talk about bang for your buck, what’s not to love?
Being a watchnerd myself, other than adoring what’s outside of the watch. Another interesting aspect I would like to talk about would be the double-barrel complication in the Caliber 8900. Double-barrel movements have more than one mainspring and barrel, therefore giving the movement an increased power reserve and sometimes a more efficient distribution of energy. It is really surprising to see how was Omega able to cram a complication as such in a movement of this size, AND to charge (in the luxury watch sense) a reasonable price. Point worth noting, the last digit represents the metal the movement is encased in. Therefore 8901 is used in the gold-cased model.
The Globemaster is what I consider, a watch of substance. It is not the watch when worn, is going to command attention from onlookers and the average watchnerd passer-by. Nobody is going to go “Ooh wow, what’s that?”, those who know, will know. One may also ask why would I take the pain and time to dive into the technical aspects of the Globemaster? That’s because most of the pleasure of wearing the Globemaster, is really a discreet one. Having the knowledge of wearing a movement with high technical advancement on your wrist is kind of satisfying. Wearers of the Globemaster do not need that kind of validation and scrutiny from anyone. It is a watch to be kept, owned and enjoyed. Not to get a quick flip.
To end this review, I would like to share 10 principles from one of my favourite Industrial Designers, Dieter Rams. He said that the 10 principles of good design is innovative; makes a product useful; is aesthetic; makes a product understandable; unobtrusive; honest; long-lasting; thorough down to the last detail; environmentally friendly; and is as little design as possible. The Globemaster has in a lot of ways satisfied these principles. It offers a discreet look, rich in history, and provides simple/straightforward information to the wearer. To a purist, this watch could just be the only watch you’ll ever need. The star of the show is literally under the hood. Offering the buyer/wearer some serious bang for buck amidst superior technical excellence. It is a watch of substance, not loud and empty bravado. That really, is what the Omega Globemaster is all about.
Corporate slave by day, watch enthusiast by night. - @wristpectable
